The Thakhek Loop: Day 4 - Viang Kham to Thakhek

The hoses are out, water pistols filled, jugs at the ready and laughter in the air, in can only be one thing - Songkraan! For three solid days, from the 13th to the 15th of April Thailand and Laos celebrate their new year. And what better way to celebrate than with a massive street party and water fight! As we eat breakfast (fried rice with chicken for the thousandth time) we watch as pedestrians and motorcyclists get rinsed by giggling locals as they pass through the village. Literally no one is safe. I'd been forewarned about this time of the year and advised to wrap up all valuables in plastic bags. I knew that we could only enjoy our rice in our nice dry clothes for so long before we too got soaked. We packed up our bags and got on our bikes and set off. All of 50 feet before we were forced to slow down to a halt before we were surrounded by villagers who drenched us. It was going to be an amusing day.

The road back to Thakhek was more or less a highway of straight roads with no apparent speed limit so we embraced this and went full throttle all the way to the finish line, all the while ducking and dodging the assault of water bombs and hoses. Very fun but bloody scary when you're driving unprotected at 80km/hr.

We arrived back in Thakhek in no time at all, passing group after group of soaked partying locals. Just before driving to return our bikes a group of girls forced me to stop suddenly which caused me to skid into oncoming traffic. Luckily I stopped as did the passing trucks. My life stood still in that instant. I then had a bucket of water tipped on me by one girl and then another covered me in baby powder. Before I could set off, one local ran over and gave me a glass of iced beer Lao. It was heaven in a glass. It was hard to stay infuriated by the danger that just occurred and in an instant I embraced it, thanked my lucky stars, and laughed at the insanity.

We parted with our beloved and faithful bikes (sniff) and set off on foot to get involved in the street party. It didn't take us long before we were soaked through and beckoned over to a crowd who eagerly handed us cold glasses of Beer Lao and water buckets. The beer was free and endless. We toasted the locals regularly and were challenged to down our drinks before being handed another glass to repeat. We also scoffed down on barbecued chicken and pork and freshly cut watermelon. When we weren't drinking and dancing we were joining the families in dowsing all drivers and passers by and coating them with paint and talc. This has to be the best water fight and street party and New Year I've ever experienced. As you looked up the street you could just see water being chucked from all angles, families dancing and not a dry soul in sight. Happy new year indeed. As the sun went down and the beer began to deplete (there were still endless bottles to be finished), we headed back a bit worse for wear in search of food...dave control.

Up until now, I hadn't really come to grips with Laos. Since our slow boat across the border into Louang Prabang I've considered the country to be somewhat sleepy with not much to offer. It's completely different to its much livelier neighbour Thailand. It's been said that Laos is Thailand 50 years ago. However during the loop and the beginning of the new year celebrations, I began to realise that it's in the country's captivating landscape, the unreserved friendliness and hospitality of its people, and the countries simplicity where it's innate attractive beauty can be found. I love it. I hope more people come to experience Laos for what it presently is. I'm both excited and fearful for what the country will be like in 10 years time. But for now, ill consider it Asia's best kept secret.