Wednesday, 20 March 2013

Mad markets, fruity hippies and dancing ladyboys

Hello hello!

So it's been quite a few days since my last riveting entry and in Chiang Mai, one can do a lot in that time and indeed I have so brace yourselves for another edition of Morse Miles! Sorry, I've just woken up from a nap so have rejuvenated energy.

Let's see what have I done...oh yeah, the Sunday walking market. So every Sunday every man / woman and their dog and indeed Aunty comes out of the cracks and quite literally fills the streets with stalls, selling artisan crafts, foods, clothes, art, herbs and remedies. Just all sorts. I started off at about 11am in one market area by the gates of the city and spent a good couple of hours trying to navigate my way around the stalls and the many irritating frog noise-making ladies. Honestly, they're bloody everywhere! I think I'm going to buy one and then follow that woman around, see if she gets irritated. Though saying that, I think they're deaf anyway. When you say no they still hold out the frog to you with a vacant smile for a good few moments before your dissatisfied face just about sends the message.

After buying a few pretty cool gifts, I ventured down the streets and picked up some pretty damn tasty spring rolls, sushi and miniature pastry things I found myself sitting in the grounds of a temple in and amongst some other markets and stalls. Odd moment happened at 6pm where it went from cacophony to silence as everyone, including myself, stood for the national anthem. When it ended, everyone resumed their murmurings. It was like someone had Bernard's Watch. Mental.
It was 8pm by the time I got home, near enough broke but culturally satisfied. It was incredible.

Went indoor rock climbing one morning, met a polite little American boy who e me a little life lesson. As he regaled me with his stories of how he could climb really high and indeed showed me his abilities I told him that he seemed to not have much fear to which he quipped back 'well it seems like you've got too much fear'. Ah the wise words of quite the astute boy. Cheeky shit.

He was quite right though. The next day I did an all day climbing course out at Crazy Horse Buttress (cliff feature looks like a crazed horse...) where I found myself about 50 meters high on a jagged limestone cliff face crapping my pants. Not literally. At that height I was trying to enjoy the amazing panoramic view before me while practicing all these newly learned technical skills, skills that if I buggered them up I would probably die. My legs were like jelly and I don't think I've ever sweated so much. It was an amazing day and I definitely got the climbing bug again. Speaking of bugs, there's all sorts of crazy ass bugs in this country. And the mosquitos, oh the Mosquitos. I thought I'd be used to the incessant itching but no, it's a constant in my life as much as having travellers poohs. Delightful daily routine - breathing, eating, sleeping, poohing and scratching. Sometimes all at ones, sometimes not.

Today I took a short trip up the mountains to Doi Suthep, a pretty spectacular temple up in, well, the mountains. It was quite a spectacle but to be honest my attention span for temples has waned quite considerably since entering Thailand. That's bad I know but today I climbed the 300 odd steps got to the top, had a wander and thought 'wow, beautiful temple, gilded Buddhas, nice view, next'. The facebook effect again I suppose plus my brain was elsewhere today. Still nice though and would highly recommend.

Enough of the activities, how about the people. As I'm sure any other backpacker would testify, you can expect to meet all sorts of people from all walks of life. I've particularly enjoyed this part of travelling. Just a couple of quick examples for you. In my last hostel I met an Australian guy who eats nothing but fruit and leaves. He could tell you anything about fruit and at great length. I indulged in this amusing moment to chat to this guy as he munched on rotten mangos, bits stuck in his Jesus like beard and hands. And then he began to tell me how chocolate should be avoided at all costs and that we're all lactose and wheat intolerant from the age of three. At that point ill admit, I tuned out and started thinking about how much I wanted a glass of milk and a snickers. For me, those two would beat moldy fruit and rabbit food any day.

I am now residing at a hostel come trippy Alice in Wonderland one room flat in the arse end of nowhere in Chiang Mai (check out the photo of the mad paper mâché tree he's made which is the focus of the hostel/bedroom/common room/kitchen). The owner is a really pleasant guy born Thai and raised in San Francisco, very accommodating, hospitable and social. And very very 'alternative'. By day he is a passionate artist/sculptor/creator (not in the God sense), by night he is an equally passionate lady boy - he loves his drag. To be fair, he makes a good job of it I suppose. Quite convincing. Last night he took us to a drag cabaret show starring Chiang Mai's 'finest' lady boys. A bemusing sight to say the least. Most confusing of performances was when a lady boy did a boy/girl duet by her/himself half dressed as a woman, the other as a man. Baffling. Too much for my brain to comprehend.

Right I reckon that's enough gossip for all you readers for now. I've planned for an elephant trek, more climbing, a thai massage (not a dodgy one, I think) in the next 2 days so ill update everyone post-activity. Also, going to rent out a moped on Saturday or Sunday and drive to an even hippier town of Pai for camp fires and chilled-outness. Pretty excited.

Anyways, much love to you all!

























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