Two days into teaching and I'm bloody knackered (insert teacher empathy here). This has been my routine thus far and I imagine it will continue to be so for the next 12 days:
05:45 - wake up (broken sleep due to village dogs, frogs, crickets and heat - no AC)
06:30 - eat breakfast with host family (including one of my students, Ghao), usually pork mine and rice or a variety of soup
07:45 - cycle down a dusty road along the Chaopraya river about 2k to school (already 30 degrees at this point)
08:00 - watch all school morning prayer and students perform schools alma mata then national anthem (very catchy and triumphant)
08:30 - 16:00 - teach overly excited kindergarten kids for first hour with a varying lesson plan of our choosing (usually resulting in a multitude of kids hugging and climbing all over me). Then 6 other English-based lessons of mixed ages and content (art, music, housework ie dt - today we made pretty leaf decoration things which I was crap at). Just a reminder that its 37+ degrees and 80% humidity with no AC = sweating my bollocks off. When we have spare time we are to go next door to the monastery and teach English to the monks which is pretty damn cool).
16:30 - after cycling back, Bhao loves basketball and volleyball so I play with him and many other students from the village which is cool yet weird as they still refer to me as 'Teacher'. This dusty and heat worn basketball/volleyball court lies on the grounds of the village's temple where monks are usually praying, reciting hour long mantras and bells/chimes are ringing. As I'm 'shooting hoops' or 'bumping/setting', I'm enveloped in my surroundings as the sun sets and can't help but think I'm dreaming. Surreally amazing.
18:00 - cooking and learning all there is to know about Thai cooking with the hosts elder Leung Chai, a once professional chef. This probably look forward to this part the most. At least 5 dishes are cooked up every evening. The picture below is what I helped prepare tonight. Curried pumpkin with parsley, palm sugar and fried garlic; sticky sweet and sour chicken wings; fried boiled eggs with a sweet/salty/sour tamarin sauce; fried fish in lemongrass with a soybean and oyster sauce, and a veg resembling broccoli stalks with an oyster sauce and fried garlic. Boom. Don't ask me what they are in thai, ain't got a clue.
19:30 - shower, cover in bug spray then finally lay down to plan for the next days lessons and update blog (obvs)
21:30 - bed
So yeah there you have it, a day in the life of a Meaningful Thailand Experience Teacher! Oh yeah, one thing I forgot to mention about yesterday is that we visited the temple in Ang Thong at which sits the worlds largest Buddha. With the sun setting behind his body, and being surrounded by the smell of incense and all colours and breeds of flowers, it was an awe inspiring and humbling moment for sure. I mean really, that is one big ass Buddha! A must see if you ever find yourself in this part of Thailand.
Righty ho, as indicated in my blog, tis time to retire (albeit 30 mins late). Much love to you all, wherever you are, wherever you're reading this. Missing you all big time.
A thread of random, often non-sensical (and hopefully entertaining) musings from my travels in South East Asia.
Wednesday, 27 February 2013
Monday, 25 February 2013
A meaningful Thailand experience
Sawatdee krap, sabai dee mai?!
(Hello, how are you?)
So it has been a couple of days since my last post and in a city that quite literally never sleeps, I have a lot of updates! Let's start off with my adventures of Patpong. In the daytime, Patpong is a thriving hub of food markets and keen and charismatic street vendors. By night, on the other hand, the area is certainly not one for the timid as the vendors bring out their finest exotic toys and souvenirs (to be polite), weapons big and small (actually saw a man try out a tazer), and lets not forget, the real reason for venturing into this market - the shows.
Initially not particularly interested in going to one of these infamous shows, after a discussion with some friendly backpackers I thought 'well when in Rome'. And when in Bangkokian Rome there are many 'talented' ladies. I mean really, wow, their parents must be chuffed. All I'm going to say is this (for those more prudish reading this), 1) that's one way to consume a banana; 2) what amazing penmanship some of them had (considerably better than my own HAND writing); 3) that's one way to blow out some birthday candles; 4) wow...how long actually is that ribbon?! And lastly; 5) at least pretend you're happy about the career you've chosen! Seriously, YOU'RE making ME depressed. After finishing our complementary beer, we made a swift exit and took a tuk tuk home, all present company in stunned silence, silently recounting the evenings events now burned into our hopefully short term memory. Wow. Anatomy. Weird.
So next day, the beginning of my much anticipated Meaningful Thailand Experience tour! The day began with an intensive Thai language school where George made his appearance and oddly was considered as one of the students so when 'he' was asked a question, I had to reply on his behalf, obviously - you know being a stuffed teddy and all. His company was thoroughly welcomed and enjoyed and the lesson was a steep learning curve but I can now successfully ward off (and count) street vendors, pimps, and tell you that I'm tired. Great success! Afterwards we (me, the 3 other volunteers, and our little whippet of a tour guide) retraced the steps I had previously taken around the city on day one which wasn't a problem because I just tuned out and practiced counting to ten in Thai. I tuned back in when we explored another temple, Wat Arun, which provided us with a stunning view of the surrounding city and river (obtained through climbing the largest and most vertical steps ever...might as well have been a ladder). After another day of sweating bullets, we retreated to our swanky hotel pool and then nipped out for a quick dinner of pork dumplings and noodles, strawberry fanta (the dogs bollocks might I add), and a black Christmas tree (puff pastry coated in chocolate in the shape of said tree) all in all costing me about 50 baht, one of the queens finest quids. Get in.
Day 2 of the MTE began at 6:15am where we were then treated to the sights, sounds, smells, and hard sells of the floating markets and the famous train market. Seriously this was certainly a spectacle. A densely packed row of face to face popup vendors straddling a train track. One minute you can't move for people navigating their way through the maze of natives savagely hacking up ducks, frogs, fish and flogging bags of saffron and bullet chillies (oh as an aside, definitely ate too many of these yesterday which resulted in an fiery departure...) and the next minute you hear the steady bell of the approaching train and seconds later the goods are shifted a couple of in inches away from the track and the train passes by. No word of a lie, I could have stuck my tongue out and licked the length of the train. And then the chaos returned! Mental!
On our way to Ang Thong we passed fields upon fields of water where they harvested the countries cooking salt straight from the nearby sea, a site producing palm sugar (and by site I mean a string of locals with crude tools and slow processes of boiling water) and then a site containing artisan carpenters carving the most intricate furniture, pictures, giant Buddhas and elephants nd even portraits. Mind blowing. Our penultimate stop was 'Tesco Lotus' to pil up supplies for our home stay and lunch. A tesco...in the most remote part of Thailand and strangely enough it was identical. Just much cheaper.
At last we arrived at our home stay in Ang Thong - a true, grassroots, no frills, live off the land village. Now THIS is Thailand. We were greeted by the village elders who were slicing the freshest and sweetest mangos, freshly plucked from their garden. I was instantly offered to help make a local dessert of soy bean pounded with coconut milk, shaped like gnocchi, dredged in fresh duck egg yolks then boiled in a palm sugar syrup until hot, sticky and slightly crispy....being a massive foody, I was sold. To top it off, I then helped to make traditional sweet coconut sticky rice served with fresh mango. Heaven. My evening has finished with trip down the road to their temple for prayer with all of the local families (80 people tops) ending with a meditative walk around the temple with candle incense and lotus flowers in hand. Beautiful.
Now before I sign off this rather lengthy post, just a small anecdote about the shower. Being that this is a remote village with only the bare essentials (necessities- and cue song) (although the house does have wifi but that's the most advanced it gets - besides the point), the shower is something to be discussed. It consists solely of a tiled room with a rubbish bin in the corner, topped up with a hose attached if necessary, and a plastic bowl to throw the fresh water over yourself as you nervously watch the spiders and lizards and other bugs crawling inches above your head. I dropped the soap. While most would make a prison-cell related joke here, what I feared was not a burley tattood man by the name of Hank or Bear eyeing up his window of opportunity (no jokes please), but any one of Noah's greatest and smallest creatures finding and unexplored refuge. I can only think of Karl Pilkington at this moment in time. Surreal situation and even more surreal day. Like jumping into a hot and cold pool of customs and cultures at complete opposite ends of the societal norms.
First day at school tomorrow. Can't wait.
(Hello, how are you?)
So it has been a couple of days since my last post and in a city that quite literally never sleeps, I have a lot of updates! Let's start off with my adventures of Patpong. In the daytime, Patpong is a thriving hub of food markets and keen and charismatic street vendors. By night, on the other hand, the area is certainly not one for the timid as the vendors bring out their finest exotic toys and souvenirs (to be polite), weapons big and small (actually saw a man try out a tazer), and lets not forget, the real reason for venturing into this market - the shows.
Initially not particularly interested in going to one of these infamous shows, after a discussion with some friendly backpackers I thought 'well when in Rome'. And when in Bangkokian Rome there are many 'talented' ladies. I mean really, wow, their parents must be chuffed. All I'm going to say is this (for those more prudish reading this), 1) that's one way to consume a banana; 2) what amazing penmanship some of them had (considerably better than my own HAND writing); 3) that's one way to blow out some birthday candles; 4) wow...how long actually is that ribbon?! And lastly; 5) at least pretend you're happy about the career you've chosen! Seriously, YOU'RE making ME depressed. After finishing our complementary beer, we made a swift exit and took a tuk tuk home, all present company in stunned silence, silently recounting the evenings events now burned into our hopefully short term memory. Wow. Anatomy. Weird.
So next day, the beginning of my much anticipated Meaningful Thailand Experience tour! The day began with an intensive Thai language school where George made his appearance and oddly was considered as one of the students so when 'he' was asked a question, I had to reply on his behalf, obviously - you know being a stuffed teddy and all. His company was thoroughly welcomed and enjoyed and the lesson was a steep learning curve but I can now successfully ward off (and count) street vendors, pimps, and tell you that I'm tired. Great success! Afterwards we (me, the 3 other volunteers, and our little whippet of a tour guide) retraced the steps I had previously taken around the city on day one which wasn't a problem because I just tuned out and practiced counting to ten in Thai. I tuned back in when we explored another temple, Wat Arun, which provided us with a stunning view of the surrounding city and river (obtained through climbing the largest and most vertical steps ever...might as well have been a ladder). After another day of sweating bullets, we retreated to our swanky hotel pool and then nipped out for a quick dinner of pork dumplings and noodles, strawberry fanta (the dogs bollocks might I add), and a black Christmas tree (puff pastry coated in chocolate in the shape of said tree) all in all costing me about 50 baht, one of the queens finest quids. Get in.
Day 2 of the MTE began at 6:15am where we were then treated to the sights, sounds, smells, and hard sells of the floating markets and the famous train market. Seriously this was certainly a spectacle. A densely packed row of face to face popup vendors straddling a train track. One minute you can't move for people navigating their way through the maze of natives savagely hacking up ducks, frogs, fish and flogging bags of saffron and bullet chillies (oh as an aside, definitely ate too many of these yesterday which resulted in an fiery departure...) and the next minute you hear the steady bell of the approaching train and seconds later the goods are shifted a couple of in inches away from the track and the train passes by. No word of a lie, I could have stuck my tongue out and licked the length of the train. And then the chaos returned! Mental!
On our way to Ang Thong we passed fields upon fields of water where they harvested the countries cooking salt straight from the nearby sea, a site producing palm sugar (and by site I mean a string of locals with crude tools and slow processes of boiling water) and then a site containing artisan carpenters carving the most intricate furniture, pictures, giant Buddhas and elephants nd even portraits. Mind blowing. Our penultimate stop was 'Tesco Lotus' to pil up supplies for our home stay and lunch. A tesco...in the most remote part of Thailand and strangely enough it was identical. Just much cheaper.
At last we arrived at our home stay in Ang Thong - a true, grassroots, no frills, live off the land village. Now THIS is Thailand. We were greeted by the village elders who were slicing the freshest and sweetest mangos, freshly plucked from their garden. I was instantly offered to help make a local dessert of soy bean pounded with coconut milk, shaped like gnocchi, dredged in fresh duck egg yolks then boiled in a palm sugar syrup until hot, sticky and slightly crispy....being a massive foody, I was sold. To top it off, I then helped to make traditional sweet coconut sticky rice served with fresh mango. Heaven. My evening has finished with trip down the road to their temple for prayer with all of the local families (80 people tops) ending with a meditative walk around the temple with candle incense and lotus flowers in hand. Beautiful.
Now before I sign off this rather lengthy post, just a small anecdote about the shower. Being that this is a remote village with only the bare essentials (necessities- and cue song) (although the house does have wifi but that's the most advanced it gets - besides the point), the shower is something to be discussed. It consists solely of a tiled room with a rubbish bin in the corner, topped up with a hose attached if necessary, and a plastic bowl to throw the fresh water over yourself as you nervously watch the spiders and lizards and other bugs crawling inches above your head. I dropped the soap. While most would make a prison-cell related joke here, what I feared was not a burley tattood man by the name of Hank or Bear eyeing up his window of opportunity (no jokes please), but any one of Noah's greatest and smallest creatures finding and unexplored refuge. I can only think of Karl Pilkington at this moment in time. Surreal situation and even more surreal day. Like jumping into a hot and cold pool of customs and cultures at complete opposite ends of the societal norms.
First day at school tomorrow. Can't wait.
Saturday, 23 February 2013
If only cameras could capture smells
So first full day in Bangkok and wow, cultural overload. After scoffing my jet-lagged face with the hostels continental breakfast, I set off to discover what makes the heart of Thailand beat so strong.
45 hot, sweaty, and death defying minutes later I arrived at the Grand Palace the obligatory 'must see' temple located at the edge of the Chaopraya river. I'm not really one for museums or art galleries or things like that, I see something nice and interesting and think yep looks nice, next, yeah nice picture, nex. I like to call this the Facebook effect of 'liking' then clicking forward to the next briefly interesting thing. With that in mind I wasn't prepared to pay 500 baht to see a lot of temples when I could go to Wat Pho across the street which, to me, was equally beautiful and all things ornately captivating. And at 100 baht I was sold. It is within these sacred walls that my buddy George made his debut to the country and he quickly became a popular and novel character, brining a smile to many a tourist, temple guard, passing monk and the like. Despite my perceived ignorance for national landmarks and museums etc, this place was truly beautiful. The colours, the peacefulness, the smells - all incredible.
A good few hours later it was time to consume my first authentic phat thai which happened to be directly across from the temple. What a surreal moment. However this moment of wonder and awe quickly vanished as I saw this rotund white man westerner (no doubt English) walk across the street toward me in only his speedos and flip flops. Seriously?! ITS NOT ACCEPTABLE! IN ANY COUNTRY! Save it for the beach. And even then, wear some shorts. You're not Daniel Craig.
From the sights and sounds of the temples to the markets and gold of China town. Chinese markets. Wow. Having heard about the weird and wonderful food stalls, today I actually lived them. The smells, oh my god the smells! Just incredible. I can't even begin to describe the heady aroma of thousands of types of fresh tea, cured fish (of many varieties, most indiscernible), whole roasted ducks (bills included) and much more. There was something that I can only describe looked like the willy of some poor creature. Thousands of lobbed off knobs just there to be waiting to be turned into a broth or something. Somewhere out there are loads of emasculated animals. Poor buggers. Or perhaps they were the remains of many a post-op lady boy. Oh and shark fin. Genuine shark fin. Mental. Ill be going back for sure. Not for the gastronomic genitalia but definitely for the tea. Did I mention the smells?! If only cameras could capture the smells of Thailand.
The evening consisted of a massive club crawl started off with the old classic game of ring of fire / circle of death. Penalties were to drink from the infamous bucket. Our crawl took us to khao san road which I suppose is like a more exotic malia or magaluf except instead of kababs, there were barbecued scorpions on a stick...and yes I did try one. Surprisingly nice, very crunchy though I was picking out bits of scorpion from my teeth the rest of the night. It all gets a bit hazy after that as a result of buckets, strong Chang and apple shisha.
Before embarking on my first tuk tuk ride where I feared for my dear life, I encountered my first lady boy. You know what, they're remarkably attractive! Pretty much passable as a genuine female save for the definition in there arms which were a bit of a give away (other than the obvious business downstairs). This is not to say that I accepted their advances. Just to clarify. But wow, good work on the old face and boob area! Sharon Osbourne or perhaps stalone's mum should come here for touch ups!
Anyway, this morning (following day) I have been picked up by the organiser for my school placement in the local village of Ang Thong and relocated to a very swanky hotel across town. Not quite 'roughing it' back-backed style but I'm not bloody complaining. I'm currently sitting here in the lobby awaiting to meet the rest of the volunteers for the first time and then it's off to Patpong. Yes, you've correctly assumed, for ping pong delights... Stay tuned for next post. It's likely to be more towards the blue shade of discussions!
Sawatdee krap!
45 hot, sweaty, and death defying minutes later I arrived at the Grand Palace the obligatory 'must see' temple located at the edge of the Chaopraya river. I'm not really one for museums or art galleries or things like that, I see something nice and interesting and think yep looks nice, next, yeah nice picture, nex. I like to call this the Facebook effect of 'liking' then clicking forward to the next briefly interesting thing. With that in mind I wasn't prepared to pay 500 baht to see a lot of temples when I could go to Wat Pho across the street which, to me, was equally beautiful and all things ornately captivating. And at 100 baht I was sold. It is within these sacred walls that my buddy George made his debut to the country and he quickly became a popular and novel character, brining a smile to many a tourist, temple guard, passing monk and the like. Despite my perceived ignorance for national landmarks and museums etc, this place was truly beautiful. The colours, the peacefulness, the smells - all incredible.
A good few hours later it was time to consume my first authentic phat thai which happened to be directly across from the temple. What a surreal moment. However this moment of wonder and awe quickly vanished as I saw this rotund white man westerner (no doubt English) walk across the street toward me in only his speedos and flip flops. Seriously?! ITS NOT ACCEPTABLE! IN ANY COUNTRY! Save it for the beach. And even then, wear some shorts. You're not Daniel Craig.
From the sights and sounds of the temples to the markets and gold of China town. Chinese markets. Wow. Having heard about the weird and wonderful food stalls, today I actually lived them. The smells, oh my god the smells! Just incredible. I can't even begin to describe the heady aroma of thousands of types of fresh tea, cured fish (of many varieties, most indiscernible), whole roasted ducks (bills included) and much more. There was something that I can only describe looked like the willy of some poor creature. Thousands of lobbed off knobs just there to be waiting to be turned into a broth or something. Somewhere out there are loads of emasculated animals. Poor buggers. Or perhaps they were the remains of many a post-op lady boy. Oh and shark fin. Genuine shark fin. Mental. Ill be going back for sure. Not for the gastronomic genitalia but definitely for the tea. Did I mention the smells?! If only cameras could capture the smells of Thailand.
The evening consisted of a massive club crawl started off with the old classic game of ring of fire / circle of death. Penalties were to drink from the infamous bucket. Our crawl took us to khao san road which I suppose is like a more exotic malia or magaluf except instead of kababs, there were barbecued scorpions on a stick...and yes I did try one. Surprisingly nice, very crunchy though I was picking out bits of scorpion from my teeth the rest of the night. It all gets a bit hazy after that as a result of buckets, strong Chang and apple shisha.
Before embarking on my first tuk tuk ride where I feared for my dear life, I encountered my first lady boy. You know what, they're remarkably attractive! Pretty much passable as a genuine female save for the definition in there arms which were a bit of a give away (other than the obvious business downstairs). This is not to say that I accepted their advances. Just to clarify. But wow, good work on the old face and boob area! Sharon Osbourne or perhaps stalone's mum should come here for touch ups!
Anyway, this morning (following day) I have been picked up by the organiser for my school placement in the local village of Ang Thong and relocated to a very swanky hotel across town. Not quite 'roughing it' back-backed style but I'm not bloody complaining. I'm currently sitting here in the lobby awaiting to meet the rest of the volunteers for the first time and then it's off to Patpong. Yes, you've correctly assumed, for ping pong delights... Stay tuned for next post. It's likely to be more towards the blue shade of discussions!
Sawatdee krap!
Thursday, 21 February 2013
Shot of snake liquor? Well when in Rome.
After quite the journey, including being treated to hot towels, endless beer, exotic airplane food and nearly fainting on the plane, I have finally arrived in the hot and humid hustle and bustle of Bangkok. This place is mental. There's more cars on the road than you can shake a tuk tuk at.
Within literally moments of checking into my concrete / San quentin-style dormitory (Lub D, Siam Square) for the next few nights (I've got the bottom bunk - hurrah!) I have since befriended a pleasant chap from Manilla who has treated me to one of the hostel's finest spirits - some sort of fermented rice and random plant root concoction (apparently for medicinal purposes which I'm yet to feel the benefits other than a stonking headache) and some sort of spirit made with fermented cobra snakes and scorpions...I mean I've heard if tequila with worms but really?!
Anyways, a very warm welcoming to a city of authentic chaos. Off to bed now to sweat myself to sleep. Surreal evening. Lets see what tomorrow holds.
Within literally moments of checking into my concrete / San quentin-style dormitory (Lub D, Siam Square) for the next few nights (I've got the bottom bunk - hurrah!) I have since befriended a pleasant chap from Manilla who has treated me to one of the hostel's finest spirits - some sort of fermented rice and random plant root concoction (apparently for medicinal purposes which I'm yet to feel the benefits other than a stonking headache) and some sort of spirit made with fermented cobra snakes and scorpions...I mean I've heard if tequila with worms but really?!
Anyways, a very warm welcoming to a city of authentic chaos. Off to bed now to sweat myself to sleep. Surreal evening. Lets see what tomorrow holds.
Wednesday, 20 February 2013
Bangkok or Bust (crapping my pants)
Well here I am, Terminal 3 departure lounge, awaiting to board my 20:15 flight on an A380 to South East Asia - aka 'trip of a lifetime' or so I'm told. To say I'm a touch nervous is perhaps an understatement, as the title suggests I'm positively s******g my pants. Lots going around through my head, mostly 'Live While We're Young - One Direction'. This is not an attempt to be all poignant and Carpe Diem like, simply because it's been the demand of my Harry loving niece for the past 48 hours....but perhaps it is indeed subconsciously poignant? Other than that, my thoughts are a heady mix of fond memories of those I will sorely miss during my trip (albeit 3 and a bit months) and nervous excitement about the things to come in less than 24 hours and all the people ill meet.
But fear not, I'm not going COMPLETELY alone, you'll notice that I will be accompanied by my new partner in crime; allow me to introduce George the Bear. Chucked at me by my Dad (for reasons too long to explain at the moment, or save yourself Hey time, indulge your curiosity and go to www.gardlinebear.co.uk/), George will be with me every step of the way (perhaps not the notorious ping pong shows) so keep your eyes peeled for some staged photos in random places!
Anyways, need to make a couple more phone calls then get on this big ass plane to Thailand! Until I land, bon voyage boys and girls!
But fear not, I'm not going COMPLETELY alone, you'll notice that I will be accompanied by my new partner in crime; allow me to introduce George the Bear. Chucked at me by my Dad (for reasons too long to explain at the moment, or save yourself Hey time, indulge your curiosity and go to www.gardlinebear.co.uk/), George will be with me every step of the way (perhaps not the notorious ping pong shows) so keep your eyes peeled for some staged photos in random places!
Anyways, need to make a couple more phone calls then get on this big ass plane to Thailand! Until I land, bon voyage boys and girls!
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